Thursday 28 August 2014

Huldufólk

Elves, dwarves, trolls, fairies have been inhabiting Iceland together with human fishermen and vikings. They are called the Huldufólk, the hidden people. According to recent surveys (2006), nearly a quarter of the Icelanders believe in their existence, and another third assume it possible. But in Iceland also are dragons lying under the lava and various sea-creatures or lake-creatures in the waters...


For our little journey looking for the Huldufólk we had a car - and even two! No hitchhiking this time. We could get the polo with which I do the airport transfers. But right after leaving Keflavik, we had a breakdown with the car (the 3rd I had with this car!). The trip started well! Not enough money to call anyone we had to walk back to the town. But luckily (and quite surprisingly) our boss gave us the key of another car so we could go on with our plans! Direction : Grindavik, once again. But only crossing this time. After passing the town we drove along the southern coast of Reykjanes peninsula. The southern coast is much more beautiful than the northest one, more mountainous. We would like to get to Krýsuvíkurberg, some cliffs famous for birdwatching. To approach the cliffs we need to go out of the road. Fortunatly we are driving a 4x4 kangoo so we don't have to walk until there. That's very funny to follow the rocky trail and cross some shallow waters with a kangoo. Cliffs are nice, with very dark stones. Perfect spot for a picnic. But no birds to watch, only sheeps around us.


Later we got to Krýsuvík, a geothermal area in the mountains. Grey, red, yellow, green, the hills offer a colourful frame behind the steam. Boiling mud around us bubbles and brings us aroma of bad eggs. The smoke, everywhere, runs out of craters as if Hell was opening under our feet. We climbed on the hill to have a look on the smoky land. Solstafar, the hill, is actually a vent, a chimney shaped by the steam. On our way we could see the hill smoking by its sides. We actually didn't know it while climbing. Now it seems to us like we were sitting on a giant pressure cooker! Climbing wasn't easy, because of the strong winds, but the view was worth it.


Further we drove along a lake on an impressive gravel road, going up and down the hills. Kleifarvatn is a large lake (about 10 km2) and is almost only "feeded" by ground water. Landscape was incredible. The blue water contrasts with the black sand. This huge lake seems like a small sea, with waves crushing on the beach. A monster, ressembling a huge serpent, is suppose to live in the depths but we didn't see it. Probably the highlight of our day was this ride by the lake.


And in the end we arrived in Hafnarfjörður, a viking town at the entrance of Reykjavik. We had a walk around the harbour and the center. The town is quite lovely, with nice houses and streets (for icelandic standards). A bit out of the center, we found Hellisgerði park, supposedly inhabited by the royal family of Elves. Hellisgerði is a garden in the shadow of trees and rocks. We didn't find any Elves, only some cute blonde kids with unpronounceable names who seemes interested in us. This must be the ideal place for children to play and teenagers to hide.


We didn't find any Huldufólk today, but we had a pretty nice day. We discovered some amazing things to sight that were actually very close to us.

Wednesday 20 August 2014

Liqueur, swimming pool & volcano

Yesterday was Tince's birthday. The occasion for us to try a new swimming pool, in Sandgerði, and to taste Icelandic blueberry liqueur. Tince is 25 years old now, and this 25th year we shall spend on the road. I'm glad we started this adventure together. I believe I wouldn't do it with anyone else.


Also yesterday we got some alert about Bárðarbunga, a volcano under Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Iceland. That's the price to pay for energetic independance and free hot water. Let's hope this will not cause troubles like when Eyjafjallajökul erupted in 2010 and flights got cancelled all over Europe. We wouldn't like to miss our flight to India...

Friday 15 August 2014

100 ways how to cook a fish

In this post I want to share some pictures of our temporary hometown. We will be leaving this place for good on 1st of October. Yesterday we bought our plane tickets, one way to Delhi. It still makes me feel excited and freaked out at the same time. On our way to India we're gonna make a few stops, including a 24 hours long one in... Jordania. The most random destination I've ever had, still it makes the flight to Delhi quite a lot cheaper.

But for now we are still in Iceland, spending most of our time in Keflavik. If I was writting a book about our life here, I would call it "100 ways how to cook a fish". Fish factories near the coast, fishermen going home at the evening when I'm having my walk near the harbour, the smell of fish in the air, fish in local supermarket, fish on my dinner plate. Fish, fish, fish. And rocks. And wind.
That's Keflavik.

A lovely small harbour on the way to my favourite place - the cliff.

 
On the cliff. Lupīnas wich were blossoming all around here when we arrived are gone now uncovering the ground of lava rocks and fluffy moss.

 
 
 
Town Keflavik. Icelandic towns always make me think of how brave people Icelanders should be to settle their lifes down on the windy fields of rocks.

The sign on the door of this house warns: Crazy cat. I think those two look quite similiar!

Another "sign"  at the door. When the days are rainy and grey, you can draw your own sun or even two!

Monday 11 August 2014

Hraun


 Free day, sunny day. Probably the most beautiful weather since we arrived. Perfect time to get a bit out of here and carry on discovering the peninsula...


Direction : Grindavík, in the south. Two cars to hitchhike and we are there. Our second driver, originally from South Afrika, lived for 24 years in Iceland. Coming back from his fishing morning, he took us down Þorbjörn, a mountain nearby the town. We spent a good part of the day hiking up and down the mountain. The place used to host an US military base during WWII, and every year events take place on the mountain for celebrating Midsummer.


The view up there was incredible. The sea covered three of the four horizons. Down we could watch at the wide lava fields circling the mountain by a sharp desert. Funny to imagine the lava still warm drawing Hell around our mountain/island. The famous touristic spot Blue Lagoon lies down Þorbjörn. From our place we could observe the smoke swirling up the hot waters. By the lagoon, a station transform the heat from the water into electricity.


After a tasty picnic we climbed down Þorbjörn to cross the lava fields separating us from Grindavík. In the lichen grew different kind of berries. We had no really idea about what kind of berries were there. But after chating with a woman plucking some of them, we decided to give it a try. She told us the name in Icelandic. No idea what it is in Latvian or French. She said they are very popular in this season. Those berries were indeed everywhere, we just had to sit down and pick them. We gathered a full bowl before to continue walking.


Grindavík is a town rised out from the lava. The cosy normal houses, their yards with barbecue and fences, stand somhow absurdly between the huge sharp stones.


Before to start hitchhiking back we stopped in Vínbúðin for some beer. We enjoyed our ending holiday drinking some refreshing Einstöck, made from pure icelandic water. Still looking for Garún n°19, the Holy Grail of icelandic booze...